This section is in response to the tremendous amount of mail
I get almost daily from 928 hunters throughout the U.S.
Yes, the market
has never been so hot - and there are many cars to choose from - and
just
as many you might do better to stay away from, unless you can commit
to the level of time and expenses required to refurbish the car.
There is no such thing as a budget 928 but a budget for a 928.
That said, it's time to stack the deck in your favor!
Get as many reference books as you can about the 928 so you are
better prepared as a 928 buyer. I recommend (in no particular
order):
* Panorama magazine July 97 (available to PCA members)
"Buying a used 928" by Kim Crumb - a must have article!
* 928 Performance Portfolio by Brooklands Books, ISBN 1-85520-269-7,
about $19
contains a smattering of magazine write-ups from the original 928 through
the
latest 928 GTS.
* excellence magazine back issues-
August 1990 - Write up on Bob Devore & Bob's tips on modifying
928s
December 1997 - Write up on Marc Thomas of Devek Performance
Plus the latest 928 Market update by Bruce Anderson - great info
* european car magazine back issues -
April 1998 - Write up on Mark Anderson of 928 International & tips
on buying
and restoring 928s
* Porsche 924-928-944-968 by David Vivian, ISBN 1-85223-483-0,
about $24
has some info on the rare Club Sport, SE and GT
* Porsche, Excellence was Expected by Karl Ludvigsen, ISBN
0-915038-09-9
about $70, expensive but worth it - covers every model & history
of the company
* Project 928, published by Motor Buch Verlag, out of print
& you'll have
to search dealers & automotive bookstores/sources to find it.
This is the
granddaddy of all 928 texts. Shows all 928 development beginning
with sketches
and clay models, to test mules and prototypes, punishing dyno tests,
grueling
road tests, a historical time piece and testament to the 928.
Priced to $100+ in the
aftermarket. Good luck on this one!
* The ultimate info source comes from Porsche itself - the full
9-volume
928 service repair manuals. Any dedicated owner will have
these, if only to
be able to converse with their mechanics on problem symptoms.
The most
aggressively priced source lists the set for $236. Used sets
are available
as well via the internet. Make sure which set you are buying
as the earlier
set contained less volumes and does not cover the S4 and up.
* A cheaper alternative to the 9-volume set is to purchase the factory
microfeche films and a used reader. Sometimes these pop
up for only $75 complete
as shops and owners move away from feche to paper & CD-based resources.
And no,
the 928 manuals will probably never make it to CD, at least not this
century.
* The cheapest "928" service manual has got to be the Haynes /
Chilton, I've
forgotten exactly who did this piece of work. But surprisingly
enough although
it lumps both the 924 and 928 in, the book does contain useful service
information!
About $19 if you can find it. Only covers up to 1981 I recall,
but enough to do
simple procedures.
Additionally, begin / continue websearching for reference materials
and price
tracking around the country.
*****
Narrow your search by purchase budget amount and cash reserves (or body
style
preference ?) to a target range ie. 1985 - 1986 928 S models,
or, 1984 928 S only
etc. Get the Porsche technical spec booklet about $9 so you can
verify numbers
ie. chassis VIN, engine, trans
Identify prospective cars and test drive them. Heck, you owe it
to yourself
to try to arrange test drives with cars both in and out of your price
range so that
you get an idea of the entire range. Many buyers have decided
right at that point
that only a certain model year will do over others and reformulated
their purchase
plans or temporatily shelved the idea to continue saving funds!
Those seriously afflicted with the must-have-a-928-itis start seeking
out shops
and actual owners, who are more than welcome to share their experiences.
Many are PCA members and soon 928 Owners Club members, and there are
many social
events where you can introduce yourself. Word of mouth on cars
for sale is some
of the best advertising, and some of the best cars for sale come from
enthusiasts
of the model so what better way is there to find a 'land shark' of
your own?
Of course there are car specialists who can locate and broker the sale
for you.
This is a great way to buffer yourself from the agony of long distance
searches
and such, but for shoppers of the earlier models may not be financially
feasible.
Plus, many used car buyers want in on all the action themselves - the
hunt, the
stalk, the inspection and (hopefully) the kill!
*************
Ok, you've seen about a dozen dogs for sale but here's one you REALLY
like!
Clear title is presented. Records and service documentation are
present.
Any necessary smog certification is completed (note in California the
SELLER
is to provide clean & recent (within 60-90 days) proof of smog
certification.
If this is not present -walk from the car - smog certification can
be a nightmare!
If your car fails the initial smog check it is labeled a gross polluter
and/or
earmarked for certification by the smog referee only. If you
are in doubt as
to if the car will pass the first time out you should do a "pre-test".
This
is a dry run of the entire smog check and non-reporting to the DMV.
Ok, you like the color combo and the overall condition matches or betters
it's
observed mileage. It drives well and you check operation of all
various
systems and switches. The asking price seems workable too compared
to your
notes of comps (comparable other cars for sale, this is just like real
estate...)
To get a pre-purchase shop inspection or not? And I don't mean
a 'foo-foo'
inspection ie. cosmetic - no, this is brass tacks - compression &
leak down, observe
& pin point fluid leaks, wheels off brake inspection, inspection
of clutch disc
wear & operation, etc. A pre-purchase inspection runs $150
or so but can be worth
tens times that expense should any number of hidden gotchas be discovered.
Here is where the seasoned hunters and the intrepid novices oftentimes
part
company - and each not necessarily choosing the inspection option you'd
think.
Of course I'll recommend the full inspection route to all but the bravest
of home
mechanics or gamblers. It's your call, I understand time is of
the essence some
times but try not to get pressured into a sale, or over emotional during
the hunt.
Never forget that the 928 was THE TOP OF THE LINE PORSCHE and parts
and repair
costs can be breathtaking!
******
So Phil, what are some of those costs? Maybe we can dispel some
rumours at the
same time...
T-belt service - an ideal schedule is every 4 yrs. or 40k miles.
Some cars are
running 100k on the original belt! The gilmer (toothed) style
t-belt is a sturdy
unit but I think this is a disaster waiting to happen.
The part itself is barely $50. Inside there may be tensioner bits
that need
replacing as well. Since the covers are off, it's recommended
to replace the
water pump at the same time. Rebuilts are around $200, so you
might want to
just get a new one for $280, your call. Some also figure hey,
the coolant's out
so now let's do the hoses (upper $___ lower $___) and thermostat
($25).
This is sound judgement, especially for the older cars.
Ok, plan on 3-4 hours of shop time at the going rate for your area (where
to service
your 928 is whole 'nother story - there is a new 928 site that is tracking
shop
recommendations, I should update my links section soon). If you
desire, you can equip
your home workshop with the factory tensioning tool for $500, or, find
a source that
rents/loans it out.
Still with me? Let's talk brakes, IMO one of the most important
systems besides
steering in any car. These cars are fast. These cars are
heavy too, you know all
that luxury leather-lined, computer-controlled stuff adds up.
Add that fact that
the 928 is one of the most competant GT cars around means spirited
driving to say the
least.
Front rotors run around $80, rears $75 OEM. Pads you can count
on about $50 set
front, $40 set rear. Additionally there's a special spring kit
($40) and brake pad
wear sensors ($___). Let's add new fluid since not flushing and
refilling when you service the brakes this far is a waste - there's a wide
variety of fluids available like ATE Super Blue for
$12 a bottle. Again, get your shop time quote at your local labor
rate. Note
the 928 will require additional time on the manual trans cars as there
are more
points to bleed the system (clutch and brake share the same fluid system,
clutch
has slave cylinder also).
Hey, what a segue into clutches! OEM / Sachs clutch package prices
(w/disc, pressure
plate and throw out bearing) depends on year. For pre-S4 figure
about $400, S4
and later $500 in parts. Upgrades to GTS spec are $850+ in parts.
Add in some
resurfacing of the flywheel but this depends car to car. A clutch
R&R doesn't really
fall into the DIY category, except for truly mechanically inclined
owners with
the tools and shop space. Be glad it's not something you need
to do often, but
I fear on many older cars, this job will have been neglected and left
to you.
Noisy torque tube? Often times it's bark is worst than it's bite
(at least until
you have to start paying for parts). A slightly rattling tube
may not be a real
cause for concern for thousands of miles. You see, the driveshaft
is actually a
1" thick rod suspended within bearings inside that central tube.
Many of the
automatic-equipped cars will display a rattle from the tube because
these cars
only have two bearings inside vs. the three on manual trans cars.
Should the rattle
turn into a squeal, I'd say you have a problem that needs to be addressed
asap.
I've been advised by Mark Anderson at 928 International that rebuilt
tubes
on an exchange basis are $495. Cash only as-is used tubes are
around $350. You
pick your comfort level. Much labor is involved in tube swapping
(as you can
imagine) I think 8 hours was quoted in the european car article.
Add your choice
of fluid - Redline or Swepco are excellent choices but do check for
proper type
with each manufacturer for specific recommendations ie. GL-5 hypoid
NS non-slippery.
Pre-85 cars with the early synchros are known to have hard 1-2 shifts,
especially
when cold. If noise is present you can be sure the synchros are
worn. This doesn't
mean you need immediate replacement though. I know of many cars
where the owner
has adapted by learning doubleclutching to avoid the expense of a rebuild.
Complete
rebuilt trans depends on year but in general used boxes go $1200 and
up, the later
cars to $2500 and up, GTs and GTS's with traction control etc. $3500
and up. No,
this definately ain't your father's Oldsmobile!
"Help, my shark is more like flipper at speed on the highway!"
Bobbing around like
an old caddie isn't the best nor safest way down the road. Phil
Kalamaros advised me this is a shock issue. Shocks in any car can
'go' after as little as 20k miles. Springs are supposed to hold their
rate almost indefinately - the issue with old springs is sag. There
are many sources
for suspension bits and here you've got to make up your mind if you'll
be racing
or not, since swapping springs and the ensuing alignment job are not
something you
want to repeat often. (Some shops can't even do this right to
begin with - it is
critical you find a 928 aware alignment shop or your tires will suffer
on the inside
edges from over-negative cambering)
Standard Boge shocks run $60 or so, doesn't matter front or rear.
Pretty generic
stuff! Koni internally adjustables go $150 front or rear.
You can go Bilstein
or other as well. Springs can be sourced used from a reputable
enthusiast or shop
or you can opt for the Eibach progressives ($___ set). If you
do go used, I am
wondering how you can be assured about condition unless the seller
has a shock and
spring dyno, in the least you should be able to take the used components
to a
race shop that does for verification prior to installing them.
Those seeking the premium issue Devek-spec'd Koni/Hyperco coilovers
be prepared to spend $1200 - $1800 for the set of four. A bonus of
this setup is easy height adjustment and OEM quality springs - I doubt
you'll experience coil sag in your lifetme with this setup! Plus
you get full support from the very respected Devek shop.
Track fans wanting to specify their own coil heights and rates, this
is
way beyond the scope here! The most serious numbers I've ever
heard of yet is Mark
Anderson's race car at 1200+ lbs front / 600 lbs. rear. Can you
say go kart. Can you say Go Mark!
Steering racks have been known to spring leaks. Rebuilts can be
had for under $300
more on later cars. I haven't priced out what shop time is on
this. Power steering
resevoirs can leak as well but this is pretty cheap fix $20 or so used
and simple to
install. The power steering hoses are a different story, going
to a couple of hundred
each for certain hoses.
Hey Phil this all fine and dandy but my eyes are starting to glaze over!
I just
want to know how much a tune up is!
Ok.
There is still no shortcut to success. Not with a car that can
triple the legal
speed limit at least! Bosch distributor cap & rotor sets
can go to $110. Plug
wires to $220 on the 32v, $120 on 16v cars. Remember if you put
some cheap, cross
firing purple wires on, you are on your own. Ignition components
should last quite
a long time so the cost is minimized in this respect. Just watch
for EMI suppression,
you wouldn't want your wires to mess up the fuel injection or worse,
stereo or cell phone reception ;)
Plug wise, the Bosch platinums are about $1.25 each and are a great
general plug. I
stay away from Splitfires completely for the street - in my experience
with a few different cars
they ruin idle quality and cost much more than 'regular' plugs. If
they dyno out better on your
car, so be it and get a set dedicated for track use. I'd prefer
seeing you use TorqueMasters or GTS-spec plugs but we are getting into
mods and that is a different subject!
Oil changes figure on 8 quarts of oil and a $5.00 filter. A $5.00
oil filter???
When you see it and the suggested Porsche change interval you'll understand.
This
filter is almost three times the size of other cars - superior and
longer lasting
filtration was the goal. You might want to retrofit the 928 filter
to your other
cars! Buy the filters by the case and you can share them with
your friends too. Me?
I subscribe to the change your oil & filter often camp, what can
I say, I want my engine
to last and don't like the looks of dirty oil one bit.
Wow. We haven't even gotten into replacing AC compressors, dead
electric seats and mirrors
(they can be related) or freaky climate controls! But this is
just to give you, the
potential 928 owner, a small sample of various ownership costs.
Studying the 928 design is like opening up an artichoke - the layers keep
going. Recall the Porsche 928 was the most technically advanced car
in the world at the time!
This is by no means to say all 928s require frequent repairs or parts
- most well-cared for examples soldier on without incident for hundreds
of thousands of miles. .
However, as the cars age it is only natural for items to wear and other
parts just
need to be changed as a matter of course ie. rubber brake lines, hoses
& belts, etc.
These are the same items that need attention no matter what vehicle
you are dealing with.
'We' just tend to prefer the best roadcar Porsche used to make - the
928!
As a buyer, you can and should leverage the cost of immediate repairs
into your purchase bid.
Because eventually you will have to do them!
If you are considering a service contract - READ THE FINE PRINT.
Many aren't
worth the paper they're printed on with too many exclusions or clauses
against
your favor. You might be better served saving the contract money
for future expenses.
If you are buying long distance and having the car transported - READ
THE FINE PRINT.
I purchased my 928 GT long distance and the car was shipped by A-AAA
Atlantic & Pacific Transportation, CA.
Actually they only turned out to be the middle man and some other company,
D&D Auto Transport of TN. If my experience with them is any indication
- Stay away.
I'd call them "two guys and a truck" instead. Mistakenly, I opted
for un-covered
transport - a big mistake as the car arrived so filthy I could not
detect paint damage
done to my front bumper until I washed the car a few days later.
The car in front of mine must've been riding on my front bumper all the
way! No matter, their
arrival contract released the company's liability for any damage due
to damage obscured
by road filth. No sh#t. And never my business again.
Too add insult to injury, my front spoiler was sitting in the trunk.
What in the
hell was it doing there? Well, they scraped it off unloading
the car. And who knows
how many times the car went on and off the trailer during transport,
the driver didn't
note arriving mileage. I should have. And yes, of course
their contract protected them against
spoiler damage. Hell, I might as well have flown to Florida and
drove back, the
repair estimate for respraying the front bumper came in over $2k.
Luckily I remounted
the front spoiler myself, it's probably on there stronger than stock
as I backed
everything with washers.
I've got to say this, I wasn't there when the car was loaded, and wasn't
there when the car
was unloaded. I got a call from the trucking company late in
the day saying due to
scheduling could I get the car in the evening. All the
better to hide the damage
they did no doubt. Of course I was anxious to get in my new ride!
*Do not fall for this trick*
Pick up your car in the light of day.
Do not sign anything until you've read and understand it - and TURN
THE PAGE OVER, 9 times
out of 10 that's where all the exclusions are hiding and they may not
even match the
original contract doc!
Do not accept your car if it is covered in filth, even if you have to
get a bucket to wash it.
Please, Trust me!
Whew, know what I'm getting pissed off at D&D again. I sent
letter
after letter to them to no avail. Everytime I called, their
claims person wasn't available. Now it's past the time period allowed
to file a claim.
I hope to save you grief by posting all this info and hope you can put
it to good use in your shark search.
This is not to say all trucking companies are out to screw you.
I'm sure there are many reputable firms out there, a good start is to look
at the ads in Panorama. If I were to do it all over again, I would
get referrals and check with the local BBB for complaints. Trying
to repair any paint damage could run well in excess of any shipping costs
so you have been warned.
Now, I'm going to the garage to see my car to lighten up. All
the trouble is definately
balanced out knowing that blue beast is all mine! For my continuing
ownership story, see Photo Gallery Vol. 1 - I'll be updating my own section
time allowing.
I hope the 928 of your dreams will someday grace your garage as well!
Good luck - let me know how it goes and someday we'll all meet up!
Phil Tong
1984 928 S "Rubin" - sold
1990 928 GT "Big Blue"
http://www.928s4vr.com
PCA Golden Gate Region member
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